In these trying times, when most things are either constant or sliding down the graph, crabs are slowly climbing up.

Phillips Foods Inc., the global seafood processing giant announced recently that crab meat is an increasingly popular option on restaurant menus, despite the Recession.

The November issue of Dataessentials Menu Trends reported that crab cakes, which are roasted, seared, sautéed, baked or grilled, have enjoyed a good showing in both fine- and casual-dining restaurants, scampering up from 11% in 2005 to 15% in 2009. In the all-important appetizer category, the little crustaceans have jumped 12% in the last two years.

No doubt this is because crab meat is cheap and versatile while retaining a reputation as an upmarket delicacy. Appearances still count, even when noshing.